Thursday, August 5
Sons & Daughters opened in June 2010 and with it came a dose of NY style and creativity. The black awning caught my eye as I buzzed by one day and the inventive menu posted on the website enticed me to take a chance on a place with virtually no press. I am oh-so-glad I did! You'll see why....
The space used to house the former Cafe Mozart for 30+ years on Bush St. @ Powell. The interior was transformed by one chef's mom, Debbie McNamara, into a sophisticated but unpretentious space. The lounge area is chic and cozy -- a nice place to relax with a glass of wine while waiting for a table.
This little amuse of compressed melon, avocado cream and pink peppercorn definitely announced I was in for a treat from the two young chefs, Matt & Teague. They met in culinary school and between the two, have cooked in a variety of kitchens around the globe. The melding of refined technique and diverse cuisines shines through.
Bonus points for the butter presentation and Maldon salt sprinkle.
This foie torchon, accompanied by a peach gelée, was melt in your mouth, velvety, divine.
My Japanese foodie friend, visiting from Tokyo, was effusive about the lobster carpaccio--and that's saying something. It was dusted with toasted and dehydrated lobster roe & dill, drizzled with lemon juice & lobster butter, and garnished with sturgeon caviar.
'Herb salad' does not do this creation justice. The salad portion is a tumble of freshness: shaved fennel, radish, dill, chervil, chives, edible flowers dressed in champagne vinaigrette. The rest is a totally unexpected play on curds and whey, with fresh curds and quinoa hidden at the bottom under a whey froth dotted with Eucalyptus oil.
Between courses, the change of flatware is ported in vintage cigar boxes -- entirely suited to the sophisticated surroundings that include original signed prints by Swiss photographer Hans Gissinger, taken for La Conversation - a stunning cookbook by French chef Marc Meneau.
Have you had lamb loin cooked sous vide in hay? Neither had I! I highly recommend it- particularly with veggies tossed in a feta chimichurri!
The chefs switched up everything between visits. This time, the beautiful scallops were served with Maitake mushrooms and veal tea, and garnished with purslane, nasturtium and smoked sea salt.
I think this dish may just be the ultimate in comfort food: risotto, marscapone, shaved black truffles and a soft egg. And this is just the right amount.
If you don't like to think about where your meat comes from, the squab dish is not for the feint of heart. For fans of squab, the confit leg in particular, is swoon-worthy. The super smooth beet puree and huckleberries were great companions.
A lil' intermezzo of plum slivers....
And a nice version of a latent discovery for me this year (at Frances): date cake! This one w/ crême anglaise, whipped sweet cream and ripe, juicy blackberries.
(The dark chocolate truffle cake with mint ice cream was devoured as soon as it hit the table).
Alas, the mignardise....bruléed pineapple bites. A nice little bit of punctuation to an elegant and satisfying meal.
There's a groovy wine cellar downstairs and while they're still working out the deets, it'll likely be a fixed chef tasting menu.
I still can't figure how they're able to serve such gorgeously crafted food for such affordable prices. But I'm not going to question it. I'll just keep enjoying. Upstairs or down, I suggest you book your table now while you still can!
Posted by Katie Christ at 9:55 PM